Dead flips: how to re-run a deal everybody else walked away from

The house an investor won't touch at $80,000 often still pays at $95,000 to the seller. Here is the check.

6 min read

A dead flip usually means one wrong assumption

When a flip does not clear your profit goal, one of four inputs is wrong: the ARV, the repair number, the cost of sale, or the exit. Three of those are easy to re-check. The fourth is the one nobody checks, and it is the one that most often revives the deal.

Step one: re-check the comps

Are your comps sold, recent and genuinely comparable? Are you comparing a three-bedroom to a two-bedroom, or a renovated comp to a rental-grade finish? Pull the price per square foot on each comp and look for the outlier that is dragging your average.

Step two: re-check the repair scope

A retail buyer needs the house to appraise and to pass an inspection, not to be a showpiece. Roof, HVAC, electrical, plumbing and anything that blocks financing come first; the rest is negotiable. Many dead flips come back to life when the scope is written for a retail sale instead of a magazine photo.

Step three: re-check the cost of sale honestly

Commissions, concessions, title, transfer taxes, and the post-inspection credit. If you guessed at these, you do not know whether the deal is dead — you know your guess was pessimistic.

Step four: change the exit

This is the step that matters. If you priced the house for a cash investor, you priced it at roughly 70% of ARV minus repairs, and that ceiling is why the seller said no.

Price it instead for an owner-occupant using FHA, VA, USDA or conventional financing. They pay close to full market value, so the same property carries a much higher purchase price. Run both exits side by side and the answer is usually obvious within a minute.

Two deals that were dead first

Paul Mayers in Augusta, Georgia could only pay $80,000 as a fix-and-flip and his seller drew a hard line at $100,000. He listed on the MLS at $150,000, six offers came in the first weekend, and after commissions, FHA closing costs, a new HVAC and a punch list he still netted around $35,000.

Darryl started on June 1st and closed 8 deals working the same way — pulling buyers off the MLS and going after retail buyers — including a $22,430 fee on his first close where the end buyer used a conventional loan.

Neither deal was special. They were ordinary houses that had been priced for the wrong buyer.

Make the second look a habit

Keep every dead deal. Once a week, re-run the ones where the seller's number was within about 20% of your offer, with the retail exit switched on. That list is the cheapest lead source you will ever have, because you already did the work and already have the relationship.

Run these numbers on your own deal

Free, no card, no account. Bring one address and three sold comps.

Open the calculator

Calculators for this post

Common questions

What makes a flip dead?

The projected sale price minus repairs, holding costs, selling costs and your profit leaves nothing — or the seller's price is above your maximum allowable offer. Both are conclusions about a specific exit, not about the house.

Can you make money on a deal a flipper passed on?

Often, yes. A flipper prices for a cash purchase and a resale margin. If you price the same house for a retail buyer with financing, the supportable purchase price is usually materially higher.

How long does the retail exit take?

Longer than an assignment, because the house has to be repaired, listed and closed with a financed buyer. That extra time is what buys the larger fee, and it is why the holding cost belongs in the math up front.

See the full wholesaling FAQ

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